A Fierce Symmetry

leopard spotlight B&W ©

A leopard in Bera

In the pursuit of higher GDP, let us not forget the Fine Arts. Symmetry, design, perspective- all of it embodied in a living breathing creature whom we have less & less time & space for.

Specially in an ancient country like India, that is desperately trying to pull itself out of wretched poverty and catch up quickly with the developed word, our wild and pristine natural world is always trade-able for a dam or a bridge or a highway.

India has just released a leopard census yesterday, which claims about 14,000 leopards in the country. Fortunately, this one time I think the numbers are underestimated. This animal, given half a chance can survive even in the most populated of places, sometimes without been seen for years.

But that’s the key phrase. Half a chance.

Ranthambhore in the Rains

Unlike some of the other places that I’ve lived in, where people see rain as an intrusion and a temporary inconvenience in their lives, Indians tend to celebrate rain, perhaps like no other nationality. The ominous darkening of the monsoon skies, the lashing winds and the heady smell of the earth as it gets pounded by meaty raindrops stirs most of us into a state of exhilaration & romance, a kind of temporary madness. To get soaking wet, to dance and play in this weather comes naturally to most of us.

Ranthambhore rainscape

The lush green Lahpur valley of Ranthambhore

For me this June was the very first time I got to experience the monsoon season in Ranthambhore. That Ranthambhore is a magical place any time of the year is a given. But dial into it the monsoon season, and it becomes one of nature’s greatest roller-coaster rides.

Tigers dancing, playing, stalking & hunting in the downpour, hiding and cowering from claps of thunder & lighting, the spectacular vistas covered in emerald green, cloaked by black thunderheads above, this was a first of its kind experience for me, even though from a photography-standpoint it wasn’t perfect. Leaky tarps, fogged lenses, poor light were constant challenges, but was it one of my best ever trips to Ranthambhore? You bet!

wet tiger stand up ©

A young tiger is looking for a way to escape from thunder & lighting

wet cub in the rain long shot ©

drenched

Wet cub copy ©

A huge clap of thunder makes her just cower under a tree, shaking with nervousness.

tigers rain dances 3 ©

playing tag in a downpur

tiger on wet ledge ©

now that I’m wet, there’s no point trying not to be..

tiger leap in the rain ©

propulsion

rain tiger thru the tree

A tiger at full speed is a sight to behold

reflection pool

mirror, mirror, on the ground..

tiger in the rain ©

my best shot of the trip

rain dance ©

here I come..

Trees n’ Tigers

Tigers on trees panorama ©

trees & tiger cubs

Who says the leopard doesn’t change his spots? Sometimes he wears stripes!

The myth of the tiger, built over centuries through records of ancient documents, India’s Mughal and Colonial histories and reams of accounts from all kinds of tiger-hunters and watchers had left us with a classic stereotype of this animal which now seems to be up for scrutiny; That they are solitary, nocturnal… and don’t climb trees.

But tigers do climb trees. As youngsters or sub-adults, trees fascinate them and they are light enough at 230 kilos to go up and down them relatively easily. Trees are great for horseplay, sharpening their reflexes and their claws, and they are a perfect vantage point from where to survey their environment. Once they grow to full adulthood (close to 370 kilos), they get too heavy.

Thanks to India’s new love affair with wildlife photography and modern research technology, there is much more access and intrusion into the so called ‘secret life of tigers’today.

Ranthambhore, when explored as a virgin wildlife landscape in the 70s by the legendary Fateh Singh Rathore was a cluster of village fields and hutments and the tiger was a shy and secretive creature, seen occasionally and only at night.

Today tiger moms are strutting about in the open, with their offspring in tow, for hordes of long-lensed photographers and visitors. From the birth of the cubs till adulthood at around 2 years, they are raised in front of a house-full audience of people. This is happening in Ranthambhore, Bandhavgarh, Tadoba, Panna, and I believe even in Bandipur and Nagarhole.

From the miraculous glimpses of tigress ‘Noon’ with her new -born litter in the 80s to spending a full day with T19 and her cubs this year, tiger behavior seems to have come a long way. Perhaps tigers too, quite like the leopard, are rapidly adapting to the intense human presence that is constantly around them.

Tiger on a tree uncropped

Tiger sub-adult high up in a mango tree, in Bijrani, Corbett

two cubs in the big tree

Horseplay on the ‘jungle gym’

cub w butt up on tree

Awkward for tigers to come down trees because they are front-heavy.. opposite of the leopard.

Freaks of Nature

half tigers ©

The Half -Tiger

From my beloved land of the mystical, the bizarre & the unexpected, I present the ‘Half Tiger’’ and the ‘Double –Headed tiger’.

These were very commonly seen in the forest till recently, but now seemed to have caused outrage amongst the denizens and have been summarily banned by the ‘regular’ tigers of Ranthambhore for hurting their sentiments.

In other news, it has been such a pleasure to witness the romps of T19’s sub adults through most of 2014/15 who are still as playful as puppies even though they must be close to 300 pounds each by now. Life for them will change soon as they will go their separate ways and establish their own territories. An encounter with each other a few years from now might not be as cuddly.

One more trip beckons …

two headed tiger in the grass ©

The Double-Headed Tiger

One Sambhar please

stag in lichen water ©

A Sambhar stag in a lichen covered Malik Talao

The ‘golden hour’ (or the magic hour), when shortly after sunrise or just before sunset during which daylight is redder and softer compared to when the Sun is higher in the sky. The low Sun filters through more of the earth’s atmosphere, giving the image a softer, richer glow. This is what most outdoor photogs pine for- go to extraordinary lengths for..

The Ranthambhore Photography Rambos are no less and they too hope and pray that the good Lord will be generous and place a tiger with gleaming eyes in this magical light- like Van Gogh’s vase placed perfectly in the light on the windowsill.

But they forget that the Lord also has a sense of humor. He places the single most commonly seen creature before us in this rare moment. The rather ordinary Sambhar. Perhaps to teach us a lesson in reverence for all life – to look closer, beyond the obvious, and see a deep interconnectedness of all life on earth, from the tiniest organisms, to the largest ecosystems,to appreciate every miracle moment under the Sun.

Stalking Tiger, Hidden Wagon

T19 stalking

Stalking– Ranthambhore tigers have so adapted to local conditions that they often use the tourist jeeps as both, visual and audio cover to position themselves to make a successful kill. They are often seen slinking along close to a jeep hiding behind its profile, masking their sound by the sounds of the engine ( and yes, unfortunately also of the loud tourist )

It was therefore odd for me to see one of the most successful hunters in recent times, T19 aka Unnis, Krishna, Brat, stalk though a maze of burnt Dhonk trees. She stood out like a neon sign on a charcoal drawing! She was predictably unsuccessful but I was quite happy to get a few surreal pictures.

t19 thru the trees in dhonk ©

T19, moving through the burnt brush.

Moving Stripes

tiger in motion panorama ©

                                                                            A composite frame of T19’s cubs in motion

Ranthambhore’s sambhar powered, all -terrain Hummer, 400 pounds of torque.. A turbo powered mac truck that can build incredible thrust in a split second and then turn on a dime.

A tiger in flowing motion is a thing of powerful beauty. I was fortunate to get a few grabs of T19’s sub adults frolicking in the open grasses that skirt Ranthambhore’s Rajbagh lake. I also got a few hundred out-of-focus bloopers which was tragic because the action was spectacular and a more accomplished photog would have done more justice to the moment
Since turning to photography I sometimes miss not worrying about the camera settings and just enjoying the fleeting moment for what it is.

cub charging ©

cub mustang pose copy ©cub full run copy©

fighting cubs 2 ©

sparring cubs 2 ©

two cubs wrestling copy ©

Some people talk to animals. Not many listen though. That’s the problem.

T19 returns to a joyous reception by her cub after an outing

T19 returns to a joyous reception by her cub after an outing

T19 3 cubs leaving jhalra ©

By accident rather than design, I have found myself in Ranthambhore almost every few months, these last couple of years. Also quite by chance, I ended up in the presence of a remarkable tigress who rules the prime real estate of this region. She perhaps is the first tigress who has raised 3 cubs from birth to sub- adulthood under the full glare of tourists, wildlife paparazzi & filmmakers and in the process, has given the world an expose´ on how tigers live and raise families. The secret life of a tiger is secret no more.

I have been an unwittingly lucky spectator to T-19’s family life over this period of time, thanks to Balendu Singh who triggered it all by calling me in sweltering June last year to ask if I was coming to see the new cubs. When I refused and told him that I would visit in October instead, he said “ Well, ok fine, but they wont be little cubs anymore in October”. I left for Ranthambhore very the next day.

Over this year and a half I have been witness to the most amazing acts of motherhood, protection, loving care, admonishment, training, fun and playfulness of this little group. At the risk of sounding anthropomorphic, her trials and tribulations, joys and sorrows, her determined investment in her progeny has been as human as human could be.

The sheer pleasure of being kissed by one of her cubs when she returns from an expedition, or the terrifying snarl which is admonishment to a cub who seemed prone to run up a little too close to the tourist jeeps (Yes, humans are dangerous, children!! Keep away! ) is evidence enough that the distance between us as a species isn’t as great as we believe.

It has been a privilege and a tremendous learning to be a voyeur to this little family drama unfolding in the lives of this very public tigeress and her cubs and I do hope I can follow many more episodes of this story as it continues..

As someone famous once said; “ Some people talk to animals. Not many listen though. That’s the problem.”

The Invisible Cat

leopard poised for stalk camo

You could be 10 feet from a leopard and never see it! Its the ultimate in big cat camouflage. There is something about the rosettes, the tone, the color, hue, shape and movement of this cat that makes it practically invisible if it chooses not to be seen.

This is probably why it manages to exist in very close proximity to man without him ever sensing its presence. Many communities, even in urban areas in India would be shocked to discover that these cats live, eat, breed under their very noses, because they manage to do so very secretively.

The exploding human population is changing this dynamic very rapidly. Instances of conflict in outer Mumbai, Uttarakhand and many other places suggest the proximity has gotten way too close for comfort.

With our diminishing forest cover, these cats have no place to go. They need a new trick. Quick.

A Herd of Tigers

T19 family spread 2 ©

Who would have thought that one could have a frame full of tigers in one shot!

If the light was any poorer one could have mistaken them for a group of Sāmbhar moving cautiously through the tall grass. Yet, this is a very common sight these days in Ranthambhore. Frequent sightings of families of tigers, nonchalantly moving about in broad daylight, surrounded by jeep-fulls of visitors, testifying to the recent good news of more tigers in Indian reserves.

40 years ago when Fateh Singh Rathore, the visionary architect of Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve fought the ‘System’ valiantly for these forests, he would see a tiger perhaps once in two weeks, and that too in the middle of the night.

I wonder what he would think today.